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Articles and Information

Tips to maintain your Chimney

1. Only burn well-seasoned hardwood like oak, maple, birch, almond wood, and fruitwood.  Green wood and softwoods like pine, cedar, and spruce cause smoky fires and creosote build-up.  Hardwoods burn hotter and cleaner. 2. Have your fireplace inspected and cleaned by a chimney sweep at least once a year and more often if your household uses the fireplace daily or if you see soot and creosote buildup. Keep an eye on your fireplace and regularly check the interior for creosote and soot. 3. Inspect or have the chimney sweep inspect the chimney cowl.  The chimney cowl keeps wildlife like birds and squirrels, rain, and debris from getting into the chimney. The cowl is important because the sides allow smoke to escape.  If the sides become blocked, the air quality of your home could suffer. 4.  There should not be smoke inside your home.  Get your fires burning as hot as possible, as quickly as possible, to minimize smoke and incomplete combustion.  If your fireplace is smoking, it is likely either due to an incorrect flue design or creosote build-up.  Once the fire is burning well, the flue should be open just enough to let the smoke escape. (If you are using a fireplace with a damper). 5. Do not let ashes build up in the fireplace.  Keep a one-inch layer of ash in your fireplace during burning season to protect the floor of the fireplace and insulate coals.  Do not let the ashes build up to the grate as this will cause the grate to wear more quickly.  Make sure ashes are completely cool before cleaning them out of the fireplace.  Do not leave ashes in the fireplace year round as they are acidic and can draw moisture. 6. Consider getting your chimney lined with a stainless steel liner for maximum fire safety.  With proper care and use, a wood-burning fireplace can heat and beautify your home for years to come.

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DON’T CAUSE ELECTRIC FIRES THIS WINTER BY OVERLOADING YOUR ELECTRIC CIRCUIT

During cold weather, we see the highest number of electric fires. These fires are not only damaging property-wise, but they are taking lives, as well. Faulty wiring or electrical sockets overloaded by heating devices can and will spark.  Space heaters can also ignite.  It is very important to check if your appliance has a “tip switch,” meaning that it turns off automatically if tipped over.  Remember to set space heaters on a solid, level surface that is not carpeted to ensure that it does not tip over and also to ensure that the tip-over switch can function.  Never drape blankets, or place combustible items near space heaters and keep a minimum of one-meter distance from the heating unit. 6 common causes of electrical fires. Faulty outlets, appliances. Most electrical fires are caused by faulty electrical outlets and old, outdated appliances. Never use an appliance with a worn or frayed cord that can send heat onto combustible surfaces like floors, curtains, or carpets as it can start a fire. Running cords under rugs is another cause of electrical fires. The cables get heated underneath the rug and ignite the rug starting a fire. Removing the grounding plug from a cord so it can be used in a two-prong electrical outlet can also cause a fire. The reason appliances have the extra prong is so they can only be used in outlets that can handle the extra amount of electricity that these appliances require. Light fixtures, lamps, and light bulbs are another common reason for electrical fires. Installing a bulb with a wattage that is too high for the lamps or light fixtures is a leading cause of electrical fires. Always check the maximum recommended bulb wattage on any lighting fixture or lamp and never go over the recommended amount. Another cause of fire is placing materials like cloth or paper over a lampshade. The material heats up and ignites, causing a fire. Space heaters. Because these types of heaters are portable, many times people put them too close to combustible surfaces such as curtains, beds, clothing, chairs, couches, and rugs. Coil space heaters are especially dangerous in this regard because the coils become so hot they will almost instantaneously ignite any nearby flammable surface. Wiring. Outdated wiring often causes electrical fires. If a home is over 20 years old, it may not have the wiring capacity to handle the increased amounts of electrical appliances in today’s average home, such as computers, wide-screen televisions, video gaming players, microwaves and air conditioners. Stay safe and make sure you get your house inspected this winter. Contact Home Inspection SA today and get a free quotation.

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Tree Damage to Foundations and Walls

Cracks and damage to walls and foundations are caused primarily by soils that contract and expand due to moisture content. The soil absorbs water and swells up and then shrinks when it dries out. This puts pressure on foundations, and if not designed and built correctly, will lead to walls cracking and even collapsing. Other soil types, dolomite for instance, can dissolve in water during heavy rains or when drainpipes and water pipes leak.   Foundation Maintenance All soils are affected by water. Water can weaken the structure of some soils causing gradual or sudden settlements (or collapse) to take place. Expansive soils shrink or swell in response to changes in moisture content, resulting in heave movements. The owner should therefore: Pay attention to drainage of the site. Storm water and garden irrigation water should not be permitted to pond within 1,5 m of foundations and walls. Ensure that shrubs are not planted too close to foundations and walls. The regulations specify a minimum distance of 1,2 m for expansive soil sites, and 1,5 m for compressible and potentially collapsible soil sites. Ensure the prompt repair of leaks in all plumbing and drainage, as this will cause catastrophic failure in the foundation.   Trees that can cause damage Many foundations are likely to be located in close proximity to planted or self-sown trees during their useful life. In some situations, trees can adversely affect foundations and induce damage. All trees should be regarded as a potential source of damage. The following varieties are, however, particularly prone to causing damage: All eucalyptus varieties Lombardy (Free State) poplars London planes Willows (Salix) of any type Jacarandas REMEMBER: Your home foundation is exactly what it means.

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Things to know about Swimming Pools

Whilst swimming pools add value and entertainment to a property, there are a number of important factors one must be aware of when investing in a property. Safety Features The number of drowning cases in private pools is unacceptable. Firstly, one needs to ensure that the pool area is properly secure from a safety perspective. According to the National Building Regulations, swimming pools on private properties do not need to be fenced, as long as the boundary wall or fence around the entire property is more than 1,2m high. If the pool is ‘open’ to the street, the area needs to be fenced with a fence height of 1,2m and a self-closing gate must be installed. If the pool has a form of covering by the means of a net or PVC/Canvas, there are a number of requirements and standards that need to be followed. These will be checked during a home inspection. Pool Structures and Finishes There are a number of pool finishes. Gunite (concrete applied to a steel structure), tiles and Glass fibre pool mouldings. It is important to check the condition of the pool shell to see if there is any evidence of visible cracks; possibly due to expansion and /or contraction movement, evidence of root intrusion, blistering to the surface, stains and markings that may have been caused by algae and other factors. Pool External Surrounding Areas These areas are as important as the pool itself. Whilst the paving may appear to be a decorative feature, one must be aware of the structure and condition of the paving, decking and coping tiles. Any evidence of cracks and lifting or displacement of paving and tiles; could be caused by either expansion and contraction movement, or due to incorrect expansion joints (or no expansion joints). These may also be caused by pool movement, which could result in inadequate or poorly installed steel reinforcing. Pool Operating Equipment There are a number of different parts that make up the good and efficient running of the pool: Pumps and Motors must be accessible and must be installed in accordance with the manufacturers instructions. The pump and motor should be properly housed. All Flow Outlets, Return Inlets and Vacuum Fittings, must be properly operational; and must be able to handle the circulation turnover rate. These must be installed so that they are not hazardous to the swimmer. Filter, lights, and chlorinator must all be functional and in good condition. It is important to have sufficient pool lighting at night. Water There must be an adequate water supply to maintain the water level in the pool. The backwash water and drained water must discharge correctly, in terms of the local municipality by-laws. The pool water must be transparent, clear, and free from cloudiness. The water must be chemically balanced.   We at Home Inspection South Africa will strive to perform an accurate visual inspection on your pool, based on the above. Call us today for a free quotation on 0861 995 049.

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Your Lapa may turn out to be a bad investment.

So there you are, shopping for your dream home, including a pool and a lovely thatch roof Lapa to entertain your family and friends during our hot summer months. That lapa could turn out to become a bit of a nightmare though, as many home-owners know very little about the lapas they have around their swimming pools and in their gardens. Specifications Obviously, the thatched roof is the most important part of the lapa because that keeps you dry! But did you know that thatch roofs should have a roof slope of 45˚ or more to perform properly? The steep slope is needed so that water will run off from the thatch with minimum penetration into the thatch. At a pitch of less than 45° the thatch will decay rapidly. Furthermore, the thatch will absorb the water increasing the weight on the support structure! Then of course there is also the thickness of the thatch to take into consideration. This is where many lapas have shortcomings! The thatch thickness should be at least 175mm and should be well compacted! Also, the thatch thickness should not be more than 250mm! What is a “well compacted” thatch? When it is not easy to pull out individual stalks of grass, the thatch is normally considered to be well compacted.   Structural Problems Now we get to the structural issues that may crop up – For instance, the poles used as rafters should not have a diameter of less than 100mm at the thin end. In addition, the rafters should not be further than 900mm apart! The support poles should not be further than 3.5m apart. Support poles are the poles that go into the ground that holds the whole structure up. All the poles used to construct your lapa should be treated. The support poles in the ground are also specially treated to withstand insect and moisture damage. Special fire precaution is of the utmost importance as it may result in destruction of your and neighbouring buildings.   Safety Measures Insurers prescribe that the following measures be taken in order to protect a lapa against fire: • In cases where a chimney penetrates the roof of any thatch structure, it should be constructed in such a way that the exterior that is in contact with the thatch cannot become hot. In normal chimneys a full brick thickness (220 mm) is necessary to satisfy this requirement. • All mortar joints in the stack must be properly filled. • Dress the area where the chimney stack penetrates the roof plane with sheet metal or fibreglass reinforced polyester flashing over and underneath the top surface as well as between the layers of the thatch. The width of the flashing should be at least 250mm. • The chimney should be 1m higher than the thatch roof. • A spark arrestor, fitted not less than 700mm from the top of the stack must be provided in all chimney stacks. The typical spark arrestor comprises of a 10 x 10 mm (minimum) section of stainless steel wire mesh across the full width of the flue and securely built into the flue around the edges or supported on mild steel dowels. • Have the chimney flues cleaned at least once a year to avoid an accumulation of soot which can ignite or generate sparks. • Keep an area of up to 25m around the lapa / thatch clear of unkept plants, grass and weeds to prevent fire hazards from sparks, etc. This condition however does not apply to cultivated and maintained lawns and gardens. • Have fire fighting equipment ready on site. In compliance with the National Building Regulation 12, you are responsible for the testing and servicing of the equipment once a year to ensure that it would be ready for use at all times. In most cases a 4 kg dry powder fire extinguisher should be sufficient. • It might be a good preventative measure to use treated grass for the thatch but it is not compulsory.   Lightning Conductors Although a lightning conductor is not compulsory, the insurer may insist on the installation of one, and it might be a good preventative measure, especially in Gauteng with its frequent thunder storms. According to the insurers, an effective lightning mast is of such a height as to provide a shielding angle to the structure/s it is meant to protect. A minimum angle of 45 degrees taken from the highest tip of the mast to ground zero is prescribed. The mast can either be attached to the building or free-standing and should furthermore be bonded to the earth electrode of the structure or an earth electrode of its own. The metals that were used in the thatch construction (i.e. wire mesh, metal coated insulation, etc.) should also be bonded to the earth metal water main or earth electrode of the structure. If the chimney or gable ends extend above the shielding angle of the lightning mast, a peripheral conductor should be used around the chimney or along the gable. This should be connected to a down conductor bonded to the earth electrode or water main. Further than the above, lightning conductors should be installed to protect thatched buildings or structures in accordance with the recommendations contained in SABS 03:1985. The installation of lightning protection should be undertaken only by qualified contractors. If you don’t have one get it done! Your insurance company will probably insist on one!   Legality Issues After all of the above points, your lapa may be still be illegal! If you have a lapa and it is not shown on any approved municipal drawings it may be an illegal construction. Check your approved drawings and do the right thing if it is not! Your insurance will not cover your lapa and it’s contents if this is not corrected! All thatched roofs and lapas are required to comply with the SANS 10407: 2015 Edition 2 specification pertaining to thatch roof construction and SANS 10400 (National

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Understanding your Geyser and Maintenance tips for home owners.

If you’re like most homeowners, you rarely think about your water heater…… “Until there’s a problem” MOST COMMON GEYSER PROBLEMS AND THEIR CAUSES 1. A Dripping Geyser. The geyser pressure control valve regulates the pressure inside the geyser so that it stays at a safe level, because a faulty one can cause big problems. Geysers often drip or leak water through the pressure control valve overflow pipe. If you notice that there appears to be a constant stream or that it is dripping very often, it may be a sign that there is a problem. The last sign that there may be trouble includes sudden changes in water pressure, meaning more or less pressure than usual. This often indicates that the pressure valve is not functioning as it should and, if left unchecked, could lead to a geyser burst. 2. Overheating Geyser. (Steam or hot water escaping from the overflow) Geyser thermostats are made to fault in the open or “off” position. If the thermostat does this, the geyser stops heating water. Sometimes the thermostat stops functioning in the “on” position, in which case the water will eventually boil, and the geyser may explode. Signs that this is occurring is when hot water and steam is observed coming out of an overflow pipe. The escaping hot water and steam shows that the temperature and pressure valve is releasing hot water because excessive temperature and pressure is building up in the geyser. The main cause of overheating is a faulty thermostat. This is very dangerous and must be repaired immediately. Switch off the geyser and call a plumber. 3. Water not hot enough or no hot water at all. Check whether the geyser circuit breaker on the main distribution board has tripped. Only reset the circuit breaker once or twice. If it continues to trip, then call an electrician. If the power supply is stable, but there is still no hot water, this indicates that either the thermostat or the heating element has failed. GEYSER MAINTENANCE Regular servicing will increase the lifespan of your geyser. It is suggested that geysers are serviced every three to four years in areas where the water quality is good, and every two years if you have poor quality or hard water. A service involves draining the geyser, checking the magnesium sacrificial anode element and thermostat, and replacing the element and anode if necessary. Lime scale and sludge will be removed from the tank and the entire installation checked for any leaks. The question is often asked, “at what temperature should I set my geyser?” You can vary your geyser temperature according to the season: 50° to 55°C for summer. 60° to 65°C for winter.

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Roof System and Components – Things you should know!

Introduction With roofs, as with many other home systems, there is often no problem until something changes. It may be relatively sudden changes, such as may happen with alterations or repairs to the roof in which workmanship has been poor, or it may be long-term, such as weathering/aging of the roofing system or one/some of its components. From the time they are first produced, every system, component, and material in a home is deteriorating. For most components and materials exposed to weather, deterioration is relatively rapid for a short time and then slows dramatically. Over most of its design life, a well-built, well-designed, and properly installed roofing component will deteriorate slowly. Toward the end of its life span, deterioration will accelerate until failure occurs.  Due to the extend and complexity of a roof system it is not possible to discuss in detail what problems may be encountered but only a few will be mentioned in this section. Roof Trusses Most roof structures will consist of manufactured trusses. Manufactured trusses are designed by a structural engineer and built in a facility under controlled conditions. Trusses are typically designed for a specific home and will vary in design. Types of Tiles The materials most commonly used for roofing tiles are clay and concrete. In the past, tiles made from fiber cement contained asbestos. Due to legislation enacted to limit the use of asbestos in products, sisal has been substituted for asbestos. There are also tiles made from recycled plastic. Parts of a Tile The parts of interlocking tiles have the same names no matter what material they’re made from:   The different tile parts are as follows: Face– is the side of the tile facing up when the tile is in place. Back– is the side of the tile facing the roof cavity when the tile is in place. Head– is the end of the tile farthest uphill when the tile is in place. When you walk the roof, the tile heads are hidden beneath the butts of the ties in the course above. From the roof cavity, they should be hidden by the underlay. Butt– is the end of the tile farthest downhill when the tile is in place. Underlock– forms the under-part of the interlocking portion of two tiles. It’s designed to act as a water channel to direct any water that enters the interlock back onto the surface of the roof. Coverlock– forms the upper-part of the interlocking portion of two tiles. It covers the underlock and is the most fragile part of an interlocking tile. It’s the part most easily broken by foot traffic. Tiles on the Roof Tiles on the roof are named according to their position and the purpose they serve: Starter course– is the first course of tiles, installed at the eve. Finish course– is the last course of tiles before the ridge cap tiles. Ridge cap tiles– protect the roof at the gap between finish courses. Hip cap tiles– protect the roof at the hip at the gap where field tiles on different slopes meet. Verge tiles– protect the roof at the verges where the field tiles end. Field tiles– are the tiles covering the main portion of the roof. They include all the tiles on the roof except for the starter and finish tiles, and the ridge-, verge- and hip- cap tiles.

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Stay away from VOETSTOOTS property sales

The Property Practitioners Act, Act 22 of 2019 This act is intended to replace and repeal the Estate Agency Affairs Act 112 of 1976 and is intended to govern amongst others estate agents. The Act has been signed by the President in October 2019 and is currently in the process of promulgation. The Act applies to the marketing, promotion, managing, sale, letting, financing and purchase of immovable property, and to any rights, obligations, interests, duties or powers associated with or relevant to such property. A significant development is the provision in the Act for Consumer Protection (Chapter 10). In terms of section 67 a property practitioner may not accept a mandate unless a lessor or seller of the property has provided him with a fully completed and signed mandatory disclosure form and such practitioner must provide a copy of the completed mandatory disclosure form to a prospective lessee or purchaser who intends to make an offer to lease or buy the property.  The mandatory disclosure must be signed by all parties and forms an integral part of the agreement. If such disclosure form is not completed, signed or attached the agreement must be interpreted as if no defects or deficiencies in the property were disclosed to the purchaser.  If a property practitioner fails to obtain a completed mandatory disclosure from the seller or lessor the property practitioner may be held liable by the affected consumer. Section 68 provides that an agreement to sell, or lease and the mandatory disclosure form must be drafted by the seller or developer for his own account.  In addition, the Authority must publish updated guideline agreements on its website from time to time. Section 69 states that the Authority must conduct campaigns to educate and inform the general public of their rights in property transactions and property practitioners of their functions, duties and obligations. Importantly section 69(2) provides that the property practitioner owes a buyer and seller a duty of care. It is noted that no corresponding duty care towards both a lessor and lessee is recorded in the Act. One of the most significant changes in the Act is the abolishment of the “Voetstoot” clause when buying a property. This is replaced by a “full disclosure” requirement.  The duty of the seller and practitioner is to disclose defects to prospective purchasers when selling immovable property. The Property Practitioners Act makes the use and application of full disclosure documents compulsory. The purpose of an Inspection Report is to serve as a record of the condition of the property for the purchaser. The purchaser will enter into the sales agreement based on the disclosures made by the seller in such a document . The disclosure document MUST precede the sale agreement in every case. The Purchaser must be provided with a copy of such document before making an offer to purchase. If you’ve ever wondered why Property Inspections are critical, here’s what you need to know. To better protect home buyers, home sellers, property practitioners and bond originators. We provide an outcome for internal dispute resolution during the property transaction. Our quality home inspections can reveal critical information about the condition of a home and its fundamental systems. Our inspections make all involved, aware of what costs, repairs and maintenance the home may require immediately and in the foreseeable future. Our basic safety inspections can detect critical safety issues. Our home inspections are a valuable educational resource that can suggest specific tips on how to maintain the home, and ultimately save the owner thousands of Rands in the long term. Buying a home is one of the biggest purchases anyone will make, yet a buyer’s first call to action is seldom to check the health of the house before signing. Remember, our inspection report is based on International Standards and will add credibility to the value of the property. During this process we identified the need for a professional, properly qualified and independent inspection service to the industry. This led to the formation of Home Inspection South Africa (Pty) Ltd. The company’s vision is to be the biggest Property Inspection Group in South Africa with a footprint in all the provinces. The company is based on honesty, quality inspections, technical knowledge, customer satisfaction, reliability and value for money. We also strife to develop business opportunities as well as training for previously disadvantaged agents. Core values of Home Inspection SA We are building a national brand All our inspectors are Intenachi accredited and qualified Building long term relationships with our clients Protect the home buyer, seller and Property Practitioner Professional service delivery on all levels Technical knowledge and detailed reporting with state of the art software Our accreditations: To be able to provide this service all our agents are trained and accredited by Internachi which is recognised as the world experts in home inspections in the world with their head quarters in the USA. Some of the training courses done by the property inspectors include: The different services that Home Inspection SA provide are the following: Residential Inspections. (Buying & Selling) Our inspection entails a visual inspection of the entire property, including outbuildings (like “lapas”). Patent defects are listed on an easy to read report, accompanied by color photographs Latent defects may be noted if picked up – example, cracks in a wall may point to foundation issues. Rental Inspections. Our services also covers rental inspections including homes, apartments. Move in, move out inspections with the focus on cosmetic defects. Inspections could include inventory if requested. Inspections are captured on a comprehensive report accompanied by relevant photographic proof. Maintenance, General Inspections. Maintenance and General inspections, including renovation inspections. Standalone inspections on a property – (example, a pool inspection, drainage, garden) These usually are less expensive. Snag Lists for new developments. For more information and to request an inspection please contact: Home Inspection South Africa (HISA) www.homeinspectionsa.co.za Email: info@homeinspectionsa.co.za Telephone: 086 199 5049

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